It's undeniable that weather patterns are changing.
Atmospheric river storms are getting stronger and
deadlier while the race is on to understand them better.
In the early 2000s, a new field of climate science
research emerged to explore the human fingerprint on
extreme weather, such as floods, heatwaves, droughts,
and storms. Scientists widely agree that increases in the
average global temperature are spurring widespread
changes in weather patterns.
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Don't expect a liveaboard to set sail or stick to
an itinerary if winds and waves are forbidding.
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In early February, a storm raged over California for
more than five days. As the mighty atmospheric river
made landfall, furious winds and torrential downpours
ripped trees from their roots, turned streets into rivers,
and sent mud cascading into homes. The weather service's
San Francisco Bay Area office issued a hurricaneforce
wind warning, the first such warning ever.
And now, according to a report by scientists at the
National Oceanography Centre in the UK, the Atlantic
Meridional Overturning Circulation, a crucial system
of ocean currents, may already be on course to collapse,
with alarming implications for sea level rise and
global weather - leading temperatures to plunge dramatically
in some regions and rise in others.
But worse things happen at sea.
"What keeps me up is the [likelihood of bad]
weather," owner of MY Infiniti liveaboard operating
in the Philippines and Indonesia, Sukhijt Bassi, told Undercurrent.
"Patterns are changing, but people still want to dive
in the same months," he said. "Tubbataha [a remote
Philippine reef system] is one example ... Nobody
wanted to dive it in June 3-4 years ago, which used to
be rough, but now it appears to be the calmest time.
"March and April are now rough, but smaller
wooden boats ply during April and not June. Protected
coastal areas like Raja Ampat will be fine, but things
out in the blue with short seasons will be an issue."
Of course, much of the Philippines are clusters
of islands protected from stormy waters. From July to
October, 70 percent of the typhoons occur, which can
mean a lot of rain, even if the wind doesn't lift roofs.
For divers, it's the wind and waves that are significant.
Reader reports show that this winter, Caribbean
winds and weather have kept divers out of the water
and in the bars more than in previous years.
Hurricane Season in the Caribbean and
Monsoons in Asia
June to December, it's hurricane season in the
Caribbean. That doesn't mean there will be a hurricane
while you're there, but it's worth considering
when making plans. For the best chances of year-round
good weather in the Caribbean. Aruba, Bonaire, and
Curaçao are outside the hurricane belt and receive
relatively little rain even during their wet season from
December through March. That's not to say change is
not coming.
I remember well Michelle Cove telling me I should
conduct my equipment tests for Diver Magazine in
August in the Bahamas instead of the Red Sea. When
I asked, "What about it being hurricane season?" she
laughed and said it was a myth.
So, I went to the Bahamas but spent my time helping
Stuart Cove and his crew get his boats safely out of
the water before I became stranded in New Providence,
unable to fly out and unable to dive because of the high
winds. So much for the myth. Ironically, it was Hurricane Michelle.
If you were planning a trip in October or November,
you might be better off heading to Hawaii.
Wind is the enemy of divers and boat operators
alike. The closer you are to zero degrees of latitude,
the less likely you will suffer high winds. You're in the
Doldrums. Rain may come down in biblical proportions,
but when it stops, which it does, the weather can
be calm, so it doesn't really affect the diving.
The Red Sea, bordered on both sides by desert
that heats up in the daytime and cools off at night, is
subject to fierce winds (often Force 8) that are offshore
during the day and onshore at night. So, most diving is
conducted close to the shelter of the shore, and boats
are moored on the lee side of reefs. In the past, August
has been the month when the wind is in equilibrium
and the sea is calm, but who knows now? The Saudi
Arabian coast seems to enjoy onshore wind most of the
time, meaning the sea immediately off its coast is more
or less constantly choppy.
The rainy season in the Galapagos runs from
February to April, but the sea state remains constant. It
was once said the best diving months were December
and January. It could be any time now.
"Monsoon"' is a local word for seasonal weather. It's
dispiriting to see tourists trudging through rain puddles
in the Maldives in the second half of the year during
the wet monsoon when they were expecting an idyllic
sun-drenched island holiday. Still, it's when ocean currents
are mildest and might suit the underwater macro
photographer. Go during the dry monsoon (October to
April), especially during the first three months of the
year, and the powerful ocean currents can bring highvoltage
diving experiences that are not for the fainthearted
diver. Liveaboards tend to stay in the western
atolls at this time.
Wherever you go, whether shore-based or on a
liveaboard, you don't want to be stuck waiting for the
weather to break. But it's an ongoing risk, and if you're
out to sea, you must make it to port regardless of how
rough the weather or the journey.
So, what advice can Undercurrent give you? Do your
research - you can learn a lot from recent Undercurrent
reader reports. Get information from the dive operators
at your proposed destination. Keep in mind the uncertainty
of basing future trips on past weather patterns.
Don't expect a liveaboard to set sail or stick to an itinerary
if winds and waves are forbidding. And don't blame
island dive staff if the boss says the weather is unfavorable
and won't send out day boats. Be philosophical.
Nobody can guarantee the weather - especially nowadays.
- John Bantin
P.S. See the Aggressor story on page 5.