Raja Ampat Explained

Raja Ampat, or the "Four Kingdoms," is a group of Indonesian islands off West Papua's Bird's Head Peninsula. It became a hot diving spot in the '90s after Australian ichthyologist Gerry Allen and underwater photographers Denise and Larry Tackett revealed it had the world's richest reefs. More species of coral and fish have been identified off Cape Kri than anywhere in the world.

What makes these reefs so rich? Pacific ocean currents combine with tides and force water up through the Dampier Strait, where Kri Island acts as a foil to the flow. The nutrients in the cold oceanic up-wellings support the fabulous and prolific underwater flora and fauna.

Between Kri and the larger island Waigeo, the channel is peppered with reefs, causing ripping currents and over-falls. The currents near Kri can send the unprepared diver whirling downward, bottoming out at 40m before being released and spat out. At the far end is a manta cleaning station - Manta Sandy - where you hook into something secure and watch the mantas dance in the flow. Once you've selected your position, it's impossible to swim to another, the current can be so strong. Sometimes the sand is whipped up like an underwater sandstorm, leaving your photographs unsharp and disappointing, but if there is no current there will be no mantas.

Underwater photographers who like to dive repeatedly with the same subject to perfect their shots may be disappointed at many sites. Around the Dampier Strait, it's different every time you get into the water. The vast quantities of nutrients can also be problematic.

Most liveaboard operators have earmarked sites farther south that are less demanding of a diver-photographer. Of course, they are often less spectacular. Many of these reefs are home to pygmy seahorses. Take a strong magnifier or an extreme-macro camera.

Liveaboard operations tend to be divided between Northern and Southern charters. Some more extended trips incorporate both areas but leave the diving in the Dampier Strait until last so their passengers are well-dived. There is no point in frightening your passengers at the beginning of a charter.

The islands in the Misool region are jagged peaks that rise spectacularly. Close to the Misool Resort are three sites to which they shuttle divers back and forth, and the currents seem manageable. Liveaboards tend to press on after a few dives, ever looking for something better.

Finally, a word about the weather. Raja Ampat is at zero degrees latitude, and nowhere in the world is more tropical. The islands are in the doldrums, and strong winds with rough seas are rare. However, temperatures vary between extremely hot and quite cool and can happen almost moment to moment. Clouds continually roll across the sky, obscuring the sun, and it rains in biblical proportions, sometimes for days on end.

With ordinary ISO settings on my camera, I've often needed long exposures to get the background light in balance with my flash. Down deep, there is little natural light. In the north, nutrients rushing past in the current can cause an unsharp effect so pictures can be disappointing. That said, there's always plenty to photograph. In the southern area, diving is easier but visibly and dramatically less dynamic.

Said simply, the Dampier Strait is good for adventurous diving, and the southern area around Misool is better for more sedate underwater photography with plenty of macro subjects.

- John Bantin, Senior Editor

For an expanded version of this piece, with the history of diving in Raja Ampat, read John Bantin's extensive blog here.