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September 2018    Download the Entire Issue (PDF) Vol. 33, No. 9   RSS Feed for Undercurrent Issues
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Deefer Diving, Carriacou, Grenada

a frozen-in-time Caribbean isle – including the diving

from the September, 2018 issue of Undercurrent   Subscribe Now

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Dear Fellow Diver:

At Sharky's, our first dive of the day, we tied to the mooring ball, received a quick briefing and, with a giant stride, exited the boat. My first thought was about the visibility. It was crap. Worst I'd seen in the Caribbean. Wracked with despair, I believed my long-anticipated disaster of traveling to an under-the-radar island for diving I knew nothing about, had arrived. I looked around for my wife, expecting a through-the-mask glare of "great job planning my birthday dive trip." We exchanged OK hand signals, but she immediately returned to looking intently ahead at something I couldn't discern. That's when I realized: We were in a huge cloud of tiny fish. Innumerable eighth-of-an-inch-long fish of indeterminate species. Concentrating on some close to my mask, I saw they were swimming madly but going nowhere. The volume of life was a truly awesome sight.

Deefer Diving's MV PhoenixWhen we cleared the fish soup, visibility in the 81-degree water increased to 75 feet. I spotted a scorpionfish immediately. The usual Caribbean fish, aside from groupers, were abundant. A jumbo nurse shark and a pair of eagle rays flew by me at my maximum depth of 63 feet. Surfacing after just under an hour, my mood had done a 180degree turn.

This dive trip was based on parameters set by my wife: For her milestone birthday, she wanted an April dive trip somewhere "new" in the Caribbean. So, my trip research started with Undercurrent. A mention in "Flotsam and Jetsam" about Deefer Diving on the island of Carriacou, off the northwest coast of Grenada, piqued my curiosity; we had dived and enjoyed both Grenada and St. Vincent. Time constraints and lack of information about Carriacou required my immediate action on scheduling the entire trip. That meant making air, hotel and dive arrangements by telephone, something I hadn't done in a decade.

A call to Deefer Diving started things off. Gary Ward, the British co-proprietor, readily answered my questions. He was upbeat on Carriacou diving, but didn't give a sales pitch. He also provided hotel and restaurant recommendations, including one for Bogles Round House, a restaurant that sounded perfect for a birthday dinner. ...

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