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1999 Chapbook
 Australia (Eastern)

 

Cairns, the jumping-off spot for the Great Barrier Reef, is a youth-oriented, tropical city with plenty of hotels and restaurants as well as an assortment of day boats going to the Reef and overnight trips to Cod Hole.Cairn's "beach" is a mud flat dotted with roseate spoonbills and other tropical birds, and you can visit the reptile farm to gawk at saltwater crocodiles eating chickens or take the Kuranda Railway for a look at a magnificent waterfall. Be sure to order a hamburger "with everything" to see how it's supposed to be done.... The best diving, with pristine reefs and oodles of fish, is to the north, reachable only by live-aboard during their summer months, roughly November to March. The Ribbon Reefs are known for big sharks,lots of them, including fleets of bronze whalers.... Pack safety sausages, whistles, strobes, mirrors, and any other safety devices that would make you noticeable if a current carries you too far from the boat.... Pricey Lizard Island is the northernmost land-based operation; they have day trips to Cod Hole to pet friendly, refrigerator-sized potato cod. To the south, the wreck of the Yongalaout from Townsville may be the best fish-covered wreck in the world.... Summer weather is sultry and oppressive, with tropical showers.... Water temperature is below 80 and colder in their winter, so bring rubber; visibility can at times be in the 50-foot range. Moving from Queensland south, you'll pass from full-on tropics, through temperate water, to chilly water in Sydney, and finally into the really cold stuff when you reach Tasmania.... Don't worry about the Great White in the GBR; they hang around south of Sydney....

For a full review of the following Australian live-aboards and destinations, see:

Kangaroo Island Diving Safaris - Kangaroo Island, Australia, Undercurrent- October 1999

True North- Australia, Undercurrent- April 1999

The Spirit of Freedom,In Depth- January 1995

Deep Sea Diving Den, Radisson, Cairns, October 1997, Charles Herzfeld, Silver Springs, MD. Radisson, quite good, comfortable good restaurant. . . . Deep Sea Divers Den day boat Seaquest very good, went to Norman Reef or Saxon Reef every day. Two tank trips, lunch, snacks, good videos of dives can be purchased. Vis: 70-75 ft. Wtr: 78-79 degrees. Excellent, friendly crew, very helpful, very good for experienced divers. They watch you but leave you alone. Everybody dives with computers, these are checked before and after every dive. Great trip! (Ph: 011-61-7-4031-2223, Fax: 011-61-7-4031-1210, e-mail: info@divers-den.com)

Heron Island, September 1997, Brett Mook, Chicago IL. Water 72-74; vis: 50-65. Depth limits and bottom time enforced. Resort is not set up with extensive facilities for photographers. Dive boats are simple flat top rigs with no amenities as all dive sites are close to the resort. Dive sites are easy and fascinating. Dives tend to be 60 ft or less. Beautiful and diverse enough that both beginners and advanced divers should find plenty of enjoyment. Sea snakes, squid, huge varieties of coral, mantas, reef sharks, turtles and lots of varied reef fish. Island is a wildlife sanctuary filled with banded rails and noddy terns who are amusing to watch and photograph. Huge reef shallows that can be walked or snorkeled surround the island and abound with life. Resort staff friendly and helpful. Non dive entertainment focuses on the islands natural setting with films, reef walks and bird watching. Food very good with an interesting selection of Australian wines. Beautiful and relaxing setting. (Ph: 714-716-0119 or 011-617-2688222, Fax: 714-651- 0139)

Heron Island Resort, January 1998, Jeff Griest, Cinnaminson, NJ. Large, heavily advertised, self-contained resort. Accommodations, food, and nondive staff were excellent. Seeing huge turtles come out of sea at night, dig nests, and lay eggs was memorable. Island is home to an immense number of terns with nests in every fork of every branch in every tree. Droppings are everywhere. Odor is always present and becomes strong after showers. Boats are very good and trip to dive sites is short. Some dive staff very helpful, others bored or arrogant. Many dive trips canceled unnecessarily allegedly due to weather and tides. I have dived in much poorer conditions elsewhere. All night dives canceled. I got only 7 dives in 4 days, visiting one site 3 times. Most disappointing, I got very little mediocre diving for the money. Vis: 20-40 ft, water: 70-75 degrees. Rental regulators were all dumped in a crate on boat after each trip. You never got the same unit, some of which had gauges, some electronic gauges and some computers. Some were in feet and psi, others in meters and bars. One never got used to one's equipment that was frustrating and dangerous. Diving is mediocre at best, poor at worst.

Ocean Free/Passions of Paradise, January 1998, Ramona Sponseller, Fredericksburg, VA. You can go to the docks in the morning and decide where you want to go with many choices and you see how they take care of boats and equipment. Divemaster takes care of equipment and rinses. Rainy season lasts for months! I had sunny days, but there was a foot of freshwater on top of the salt water and terrible vis:10-40 ft., Water 75 degrees. Australians said "Don't come in January." It poured for 3 weeks. Completely touristy and no sense of Australia.


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 Copyright © 1999, 1998 by DSDL, Inc., publisher of Undercurrent. All rights reserved. No portions of this report may be reproduced in any way, including photocopying and electronic data storage, without prior written permission from the publisher. For more information, contact DSDL, Inc., P.O. Box 1658, Sausalito, CA 94966.