Cairns, a youth-oriented tropical city with plenty of hotels and restaurants, is the jumping-off spot for the Great Barrier Reef. Here you can find plenty of day boats to the Reef and overnight trips to Cod Hole. . . . Cairns' "beach" is a mud flat dotted with roseate spoonbills and other tropical birds. Visit the reptile farm to gawk at saltwater crocodiles eating chickens, take the Kuranda Railway for a look at a magnificent waterfall, and order a hamburger "with everything" to see how it's supposed to be done. . . . Best diving for pristine reefs and oodles of fish, is to the north, reachable only by live-aboard, usually during their summer from November to March. The Ribbon Reefs are known for big sharks, and lots of them, including fleets of bronze whalers. . . . Pricey Lizard Island is the farthest north land-based operation; they have day trips to Cod Hole to pet friendly, refrigerator-sized potato cod. To the south, the wreck of the Yongala out from Townsville may be the best fish covered wreck in the world. . . . Summer weather is sultry, oppressive, with tropical showers. . . . Water temperature below 80 and colder in their winter so bring rubber; visibility can at times be in the 50 foot range. Moving from Queensland south, you pass from full-on tropics through temperate water, chilly in Sydney and into the real cold stuff when you reach Tasmania. . . . Don't worry about the Great White in the GBR; they hang around south of Sydney. . . .

Heron Island, March 1997, Robert Neal, Corpus Christi, TX. "Southern G.B.R. (Very remote)! The staff was very helpful and experienced. Weather conditions and visibility poor due to typhoon in Coral Sea. vis: 50-60 ft. water: 74-78 degrees. Dive restrictions enforced. Lots of reef sharks, turtles were hatching, manta rays. Resort was outstanding: food, accommodations, beaches, staff, etc."

Heron Island, April 1997, Bill, Charlene & Steven Wheeler, Richmond, VA. "Half mile long coral cay, 45 miles east of Australia, at the southern end of the Great Barrier Reef. P & O Resort shares the island with 30-50 university marine biology and bird researchers, and with 2-300,000 birds, and 2-300 nesting turtles. Access to the island by high speed ferry or helicopter from Gladstone. All meals are provided in a modern open air dining room (there is no where else to eat). All accommodations in free standing cottages or in condominium style beach front suites. All dives one tank boat dives, 15 minutes from the resort beach. Dive sites vary and all are spectacular. Every dive includes white tips and carpet sharks, rays of various types, juvenile and adult turtles, an amazing assortment of reef fish and nubibranches. On a safety stop at 15 feet had a ten minute encounter with an eight foot manta ray that demanded to be touched. At low tide the reef flats are exposed. The reef tops are dead and provide a walkway all the way to the bommies (about a mile off shore). The sides of the reef are alive with corals and juveniles of all species including sharks and rays. Squirting giant clams and nudibranchs and sea hares abound. P & O provides old tennis shoes and walking sticks. Daily walking tours of the reef guided by a marine biologist. At high tide, these reefs are covered in 4-15 feet of water and are available for snorkels and swimmers. Green loggerhead turtles nest and lay their eggs on Heron beach from January through April. We watched ancient female turtles climb the beach, dig their nests and lay clutches of 100 eggs per nest. Dozens of turtles nests hatched in a fury of little flippers as the hatchlings scrambled for the water. P & O does a great job of providing what you need but staying out of your way. The dive shop and dive boats are well equipped and staffed. Everything you need to dive is for sale or rent. gear is slightly cheaper to buy than in the states."

Heron Island, September 1997, Gary Gibbs, Modesto, CA. "Although highly touted, I would not recommend it. Island heavily populated by noddy terns and banded rails, 150-200,000 in season and 60-75,000 out of season. Poop everywhere. Even on you. Smells like a sewer. Birds in the dining room steal your food when you go to the buffet. Birds on the buffet also. From Oct-April birds cry all night like a baby. Numerous customers complained about the foul fowl. . . . Dove mostly the north shore/reef. Not much color. Mostly staghorn and some bland bommies; south of reef has more colorful corals. . . . Dive operation restrictive to the point of almost taking the fun out. Strict about returning to boat w/750 psi. Did allow us to dive our computers, but checked us very closely. . . . Positives: neat swim throughs, lots of turtles, great night dive. vis: 50-60 ft. water: 60-70 degrees. Beginners thought the reef good, but experienced divers knew better."

Sundive Australia/Bay Beach Motel, March 1996, Jeff Robertson, Roseville, CA. "Byron Bay is a beautiful seaside town just south of the Gold Coast in New South Wales. Sundive Divers are a professional group that will let you dive your own profile if you can demonstrate your ability. Good for beginners who want to follow a divemaster. vis: 60­70 ft. water: 76­77 degrees. Restriction enforced for diving was time. Very knowledgeable and will point out things you'd otherwise miss. Non diving companions will love the quaint town relaxing atmosphere."

Haba Dive/Coconut Grove Motel, April 1997, Carolyn Hoffman, Vienna, VA. "Haba Dive in Port Douglas has super service, but caters more to snorklers than divers. Our children who snorkeled saw many more varieties and bigger fish than we did. Visibility was poor - 12­15 meters ­­ and the very rough boat ride out to the reef lasted nearly 2 hours. water: 26 degrees C. Very restrictive diving. Overall the dive was very disappointing. Coconut Grove Motel is highly recommended as a good bargain and there's lots of things to see near Port Douglas."

Copyright 1998 by DSDL, Inc., publishers of Undercurrent. All rights reserved. No portions of this report may be reproduced in any way, including photocopying and electronic data storage, without prior written permission from the publisher. For more information, contact DSDL, Inc., P.O. Box 1658, Sausalito, CA 94966.