Dive Review of
MV Golden Dawn in
Papua New Guinea/Hermits & Ninigos

Bonaire, Bahamas, Caymans, Belize, Cocos, Hawaii, Fiji, Yap, Palau,
Australia, Thailand, Red Sea, mostly on liveaboards

Dive Conditions

according to computer, usually an hour  

crew was gentle with gear, dedicated rinse for cameras  

Overall Rating

 This was my 5th trip to PNG in a 20 year span; twice on Febrina, 3 times
on Golden Dawn. I fear it may be my last. Had I not been there before, I
could not have noticed the differences. While the diving is still good, it
is no longer excellent. The long liners have been through, cleaning out
food fish and sharks, destroying the reefs in the process. The Japanese
have the locals fishing for them, further depleting the fish stocks. There
were many fewer fish than in the past. Schools of medium to large fish are
noticeably absent. We found a long net draped down the side of a previously
pristine underwater bommie. Many algae eaters are gone, the reef shows
signs of algae overgrowth. I remember more nudibranches and invertebrates
in the past. Some areas were  still beautiful, but too many were empty
looking with ravaged coral.  Eastern Fields (on the other side of PNG) is
far enough away that it is still excellent.
 Air Nuigini makes every trip a trial of nerves and guts. They routinely
cancel a flight or two every day, due to their aging fleet and lack of
repairs. Getting on a particular flight with several days worth of people
all trying to do the same thing requires nerves of steel and a brassy
attitude. Even then, the flights don't necessarily go to the city they are
supposed to.  All five of the divers for this trip missed two full days of
diving. Frustrating for crew and guests.
 Craig still runs an tight ship, everything in good repair. His crew is
superb and accomodating, the food excellent. But with Air Nuigini's
cancelled flights and the long liners destroying the reefs, the dive
business in PNG is being destroyed as well. Alas.

 

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