2000 Chapbook

Some of the world's finest diving is in this land just north of Australia whose most consistent feature is its unpredictability.... It's a dream destination for live-aboards with unique critters on a big scale: big fish, big coral, big distances, and muck diving. It's also a naturalist's paradise with beautiful topography: mountains covered with snow in July shade, steaming jungles, butterflies as big as birds, walking-stick insects a foot long, and splendid Birds of Paradise. Most rain comes in heavy afternoon downpours. Volcanoes routinely disrupt things, destroying Rabaul in 1994 for the umpteenth time, although now it has a new airport.... There's excellent land-based diving at Walindi Plantation.... The water in Kimbe Bay may be in the high 80s, with visibility up to 200'. . . . If you're into wrecks, check with the live-aboards in this area as some of them are once again making trips to Rabaul.... After traveling this far, you must take a week to stay in some of the fine lodges like Karawari or Tari (even though they want top dollar) to visit indigenous, primitive, wild-and-woolly cultures that are among the most interesting on the planet. The people are divided into hundreds of frequently-sparring tribes speaking hundreds of languages. Witchdoctors on the outer islands maintain the old value systems, yet go to Christian services on Sundays, and men from the stone age, covered with colored mud, mingle in airports with business people in suits and ties.... Women should not travel alone in PNG. Port Moresby is an unsafe city, although the big hotels are fine; but use Moresby for changing planes and daytime shopping at the superb giant crafts market.... If you have to lay over in Port Moresby, consider Loloata Island Resort (011-675-325-1369 or e-mail loloata@daltron.com.pg), a diver's alternative 25 minutes from the airport .... Malaria prophylaxis is still essential. English and Pidgin English (helicopter: "Mixmaster blong Jesus") spoken....

For full reviews of the following PNG destinations and live-aboards, see:

Mike Ball's new Paradise Sport,PNG Live-aboard Choices, Loloata Island Resort, Undercurrent- October 1998

Christensen Research Institute, Madang Lagoon, Undercurrent- February 1998

Chertan,In Depth- November 1995

Tiata,

In Depth- May 1995

Golden Dawn,

In Depth- March 1995

Loloata Island Resort, November 1998, José Kirchner, Carmichael, CA. Vis: 40 ft. Water 80-82 degrees. Experienced divers allowed their own profiles unless guiding was requested. Ideal place to rest from long air trip. Resort picks you up at Airport and transport you (van and boat) to the secure and friendly resort on its own island. Those who stay a day or two usually wish they had spent more time! Resort is rustic but comfortable and clean. Food is served family style. Breakfast and dinner are tasty and well prepared, lunch is pretty much the same cold buffet. You put your dive gear out the first day, from then on it is shlepped, set up, changed to fresh tanks, rinsed and dried for you. Boat is a 30-foot Reefmaster, cruises 20 knots, has shower, camera rinse and dual re-entry ladders. All 30 moored sites are 10-30 minutes, including several wrecks (two excellent) and an A-20 Havoc plane. Captain Mike is professional and knowledgeable. More than 1500 species have been photographed here, including Ghost Pipefish, Rhinopias and more. Macro and fish photographers will be in heaven. Our trip was punctuated by high winds and waves that closed several sites, and made for poor vis. (Loloata Island Resort (Dik Knight) P. O. Box 5290, Boroko NCD, Papua New Guinea, phone 675.325.8590; fax +675.325.8933; e-mail: loloata@daltron.com.pg; website: http://www.loloata.com.)

Tufi Dive Resort, July 1999, Chuck & Jule Feinberg, Flushing, NY. Vis: 50-150 ft. Water: 84-85 degrees. Restrictions: None if you were experienced. This place is fantastic, but will it survive? We were the only guests for a week. Ken Weaving, the manager/part owner hopes for 4-6 per week but can accommodate more. In the midst of the PNG fjords (which you can see as the tiny plane flies in), created by lava flows. Fjord diving is muck diving (great!). PT boat wrecks, turtles, excellent stuff. Best diving is with Ken and his experienced village crew on outer reefs, half an hour to two hours by boat. Some dives on known reefs, others exploratory, truly virgin reefs, known only to fishermen from local clans. Lush colorful soft and hard corals going down 150 feet. Vis 150 ft. or more. Multiple bommies, intricate reef structure, lots of swim throughs and overhangs. Saw an albino hammerhead, many gray whalers, feeding sailfish at 15 ft. Huge schools of jacks and barracuda. Some fish newly discovered and unnamed. Boat comfortable. You are involved in planning and execution your dives. Two or more dives per day according to your desires. Super food (mainly fish and spiny lobster), hands on diving and virgin reefs, dancing to local rock group of musicians from various clans. (Telephone +675 641-1438; Tel/Fax +675 325-8886; Fax +675 641-1438)

Tufi Dive Resort, July 1999, Lois B. Zarka, Brooklyn, NY. Vis: 30-100 ft. Water: 84-86 degrees. Every cabin with spectacular views of lava fjords. Beautiful grounds and views. Choice of diving open water and big critters or lava fjords with gorgeous soft corals and sponges with great critters; mandarin fish, mantas, shrimp, sea hares, tons of nubibranchs. Most nudibranchs not even in books (new, unlisted species on every dive more and more stuff seen, never seen before. Great boat to get to dive sites. Prices of resort and diving, the best of all dive places in PNG.