The Red Sea is on every diver's top-ten list. When it was under Israeli control, the reefs were well-protected, but now, under Egyptian domain, Hurghada dive operators are failing to provide loving care to nearby reefs. Live-aboards are trying to move southward, but they're having difficulties with other governments. Most of the good southern sites have been closed. Be sure to check ahead of time to see if this has changed. Water temperatures can drop into the cool 60s during February and rise into the 80s by August.... Many divers combine a Red Sea trip with a visit to Israel and biblically historical sites....

Moon Dancer, September 1997, Joe Johnston, Mt. Olive, MS. Probably the best Red Sea live-aboard. Unable to go to Ras Mohammed or the Brothers. Dived no known sites but in general diving was good. Ten divers and ten crew; the excellent care and attention that you can expect on a Peter Hughes Dancer. Diving was good; on Panorama Reef I saw an alligator fish, whitetip shark, four turtles, blue spot ray, brown moray, two lionfish and a bumphead wrasse. Vis: 50-100 ft. Water: 78-80 degrees. No diving restrictions enforced. Food and service was good but food not as great as on other Dancer boats. (Peter Hughes Diving, Ph: 800-932-6237 (US/Can) or 305-699-9391, Fax: 305-699-9475,

e-mail: dancer@winnet.net)

Moon Dancer, November 1997, Charlie Stillings, Norwalk, CT. Best diving I have done. 100 ft. visibility. Dove 5-6 wrecks. Two dives on Thistlegorm wreck outstanding. Many dives 100+ ft. Vis: 100-150 ft. Water 76-78 degrees. Dive restrictions: two hours between dives, 130 ft. depth. Millions of fish: Moray, blue spotted lagoon ray, cornet fish, frogfish, stonefish, lionfish, crocodile fish, coral groupers, parrot fish, yellowbar, royal angelfish, black spotted puffin fish, two bar anemone fish. Four-five dives a day. Great crew.

Ghazala I, Sinai Divers, August 1997, Robert J. Bondi, Miami, FL. Group of 12 experienced divers led by Martin Sutton of Fisheye, Grand Cayman. Best trip I have been on! Martin had everything arranged from Cairo Sheraton, buses, logistics, luggage tickets. Started with dinner in Cairo on a boat floating down the Nile, with Egyptian music and belly dancers. Toured the Egyptian Museum, led by an Egyptologist. Sadly, our bus was in the very parking lot where just a few weeks later, terrorists bombed a tour bus, killing many innocent people. Bused to Sharm El Sheikh in the South Sinai. Red Sea is awesome, but according to experienced Red Sea divers, the reefs, walls, and pelagics have deteriorated with the hordes of divers. Crew was terrific, always helped with gear, assuring 3000 psi fills, fresh water for camera rinses. Food excellent and varied. Spacious accommodations (Martin limited the booking to 12 persons) a/c worked. Martin helped everyone with camera and video problems, gave excellent briefings-his knowledge comes from twenty years of diving these sites and living in Egypt. Ras Mohammed is everything everyone says it is! Vis: 60-100 ft. Water: 80-83 degrees. No dive restrictions. From Cairo we took an excursion to Luxor, led by Martin. The Valley of the Queens and the Tomb of Nefertari are worth the trip. Pyramids, tombs, are spectacular. (Ph: 011-202-418-2771, Fax: 011-202-418-4982,

e-mail: ehe@eis.com.eg)

Sea Surveyor, September 1997, Linda Hanley, Oak Grove, MO. Diving very good, soft corals great! Macro not so good, small tropicals good, not many large fish. Several turtles. Photo room good, E-6 available if captain had time and seas calm enough. Boat rides well, which is good as Red Sea tends to be windy and rough. Vis: 100-200 ft. Water: 80-84 degrees. Dive restriction enforced was time, only at night. Most diving from RIB and can be a ride; they find you. Stairway to cabin on lower deck is narrow and steep, so not for disabled. Toilet and showers are shared but there are four of each. Food excellent. Egypt customs a hassle-always hire ground operator! They are great.