Dive Review of
Happy Ha'apai Divers/Sandy Beach Resort in
Tonga/Ha'apai

All over the Carribean, Fiji, Costa Rica

Dive Conditions

None  

No special setup, but crew was careful with equipment.  

Overall Rating

Sandy Beach Resort (www.sandybeachresort.de) is a gem – and a great value
for the South Pacific.  The bungalows are solidly built and well thought
out, with plenty of storage, a roomy shower with plenty of hot water and
good water pressure, and a mini-fridge. Each of the 12 cottages faces the
beach, with the covered front porch only steps from the water’s edge. Beach
chairs are provided for each cottage, and bicycles are available at no
charge.  The beach is gorgeous, clean, loaded with seashells, and
practically devoid of people, given the minimal number of travelers that
make their way to Ha’apai.  Food was excellent, with a generous breakfast
that minimized the need for lunch (although snacks are available in the
afternoon).  Dinners were relatively “upscale,” and a little on the pricey
side at $45/person, but they served the best lobster I’ve ever eaten
anywhere. Boris and Jürgen, owners of Sandy Beach, are friendly,
efficient, and graciously accommodating.  I did, however, find the site of
turtle shells and Tritan’s trumpets decorating the walls to be disturbing,
given that both are endangered and scarce in Tongan waters.  Down the road,
at the tip of the island, is Matafonua Lodge (www.matafonua.com).  It has
the same ownership as Sandy Beach, but is a lower-priced alternative, with
basic cabins, shared facilities, and an open-air, casual restaurant with a
killer view of the sea.  Managers Dave and Sally were warm and welcoming,
and I enjoyed their hospitality as well as their food – and more than a
couple Royal Bitters (one of Tonga’s local brews).

Happy Ha’apai Divers (www.tonga-dive.com) is located on-site at Sandy
Beach, and was just a short walk from my bungalow.  The staff was fun and
friendly, but the weather just wasn’t cooperative during my stay.  Tonga’s
islands are flat, and there is very little shelter from the wind -- the
diving is more weather-sensitive here than any place I’ve traveled. For two
days after my arrival, high winds prevented the dive boat from going out. 
I was able to do some shore diving (suiting up on my own front porch and
walking to the water’s edge for an easy sand entry), and although the
conditions weren’t great, there was always something to see at the bommies
right offshore.  The winds were still blowing on day three, and we only
managed one boat dive before heading in again.  Because Tongan laws
prohibit working on Sunday, the dive boat can’t go out – although I was
able to shore dive.  Tonga has some beautiful reefs, and although they
weren’t as “fishy” as I would have hoped, the coral was generally lush and
very healthy.  My favorite site (once the wind died and we were able to get
in two boat dives daily) was a series of rolling, white sand hills and
bommies.  Dives are not rushed, and I was able to freely dive my own
profile, with most dives running more than an hour.  The surface interval
was “highly civilized,” with hot coffee and tea, fruit, and cookies.  The
boat crew was fun and eager to please.  My visit coincided with the end of
the humpback whale season, and when whales were sighted, the crew was happy
to spend some time following and watching them.  We attempted one in-water
interaction, but mother and baby humpback kept their distance.  

Topside time was mostly spent reading, walking the beach, or visiting with
my international “neighbors” (I was the only American there).  I went to
church on Sunday with Jürgen and several other guests, and thoroughly
enjoyed the Tongan ceremony and the incredible music. The hotel staff and
other local villagers put on a traditional singing/dancing ceremony one
evening.  I took an afternoon walk to the nearby village of Faleloa, where
the friendly locals were more than happy to let me take their pictures. And
an 11-km bike ride to Pangai provided exercise and beautiful scenery the
day before I headed home.

I flew Air Pacific from LAX, via Nadi, Fiji, and on to Nuku’alofa (Tonga’s
capital), for an overnight stop before a short and scenic morning flight to
Ha’apai.  Let Boris at Sandy Beach arrange your domestic air and overnight
hotel, if required.  For my 7-hour layover in Nadi, I got a dayroom at
Raffles Gateway Hotel, right next to the airport.  It’s well worth it, for
the chance to take a shower and a nap between flights. Get some Tongan
currency before catching your domestic flight (there is a currency exchange
counter in the Nadi airport).  While Sandy Beach and Happy Ha’apai Divers
will take your credit card, you’ll need cash to pay for your domestic
flight (approximately $140 USD round-trip), for any food and drink at
Matafonua Lodge, and for your Tongan departure tax.  At the international
airport in Nuku’alofa, I was able to purchase a few souvenirs (coffee,
vanilla beans, and local crafts).

Tonga is definitely behind the tourism curve, which is, in my opinion, a
large part of its charm.  The dive industry is also fairly young here; many
of the reefs are never dived, and many are inaccessible when the wind
blows. The potential is enormous, but if you go, be prepared to appreciate
your time spent topside.  While I was disappointed to not have gotten in
more dives, I thoroughly enjoyed my visit to Ha’apai, and for a South
Pacific destination, Tonga is a steal. On Foa Island, there is no shopping
and no nightlife.  There is total relaxation, friendly local people, and
stunning natural scenery.

 

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