Dive Review of
Scuba Coiba/Sol Y Mar in
Panama/Coiba

Maldives, Palau, French Polynesia, Carribbean, Truk, Gallapagos, Cocos,
Malpelo.

Dive Conditions

Requested to dive our own profile and refer to buddy's computer if we
didn't have one.  

Herbie agreed to set up a rinse tank on his boat if requested.  However,
given the limited possibilites for photography, this was never tested.  

Overall Rating

If you go to Coiba expecting Cocos and Galapagos on a budget, you are bound
to be disappointed.  Although the ocean topography is similar and for the
most part shares the coral barrenness of these locations (aside from a few
struggling fans), the fish life is less than I expected.  But perhaps my
expectations were raised by the Undercurrent and [UK] Diver magazine
article [both of which are on Scuba Coiba's website].  Visibility was poor
on most dives, but it did rain on preceding days. We did go on the three
day Coiba trip, and indeed the two dives undertaken on the second day were
better than the others.  

Austrian expat Herbie is a relaxed and good-natured fellow running a very
modest operation.  According to Rachel, 50% of his business is walk-in -
mainly backpackers and travellers looking to add a day's diving.  He made a
special effort to accommodate my temperamental and difficult companions. 
Scuba Coiba operates one boat and charters a fisherman's boat if the need
arises.  This fisherman's boat lacked a reliable engine, skilled operators,
radio or oxygen.  Both boats lacked a ladder, making re-entries challenging
and inelegant.  While Canadian guide Glen was friendly, he was outshined by
his colleague, Rachel.  This very enthusiastic and warm Englishwoman made a
major effort to please guests and find critters (sea horse and frog fish.) 
If you do go, try to get her.  

Luis at Sol y Mar did not want to bother with breakfast, which was a
problem given that the local restaurant struggled to open before the dive
boats left.  If I had a car, I would stay at the very attractive
Italian-run Oasis Surf Camp on the stunning El Estero beach, a few miles
down the road.  This is also a great place to dump non-diving partners and
to spend  time after the dives.  If air conditioning and hot water are
indispensable, I would consider the American-run Buena Vista lodge, located
closer to Herbie's shop.  It got good reports.

The local restaurant visited by Undercurrent's correspondent has been
upgraded and refurbished, losing any charm it may have possessed to make up
for the barely edible food and mind-numbingly slow service.  Alaskan-run
Vianka's is only good for beers, but the local bar next to Sol y Mar looks
more fun.  Dine at the superb and very reasonably priced Argentinian
Parilla (grill), Pide.  Or go to the Roman Pizzeria, close to Vianka's for
some of the best pizzas in the country. 

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