Honduras |
All dive resorts are on the Bay Islands: Roatan, Guanaja, Utila, and Cayos Cochinos. . . . Home of the world's most aggressive no-see-ums; they bite, bite, bite; Skin-So-Soft works for a few, but most people need DEET - for some, the bites have serious allergic reactions. . . . Many vacations are ruined for those unprepared. . . . Great walls, offshore seamounts, excellent coral and gorgonian. . . . Few large fish or lobsters due to overfishing. Favorite dives: Little Bight, Black Hill, Church Bank and Turtle Bay Wall on Utila; and CoCo View Wall, Calvin's Crack, Mary's Place, and Valley of Kings on Roatan, Jim's Silverlode on Guanaja, and the sea mounts off Cayos Cochinos. Whale sharks occasionally near Utila. . . . Cayos Cochinos excellent for diversity of macro subjects. . . . Limited access to beach diving except at Coco View and Fantasy Island on Roatan, Bayman Bay on Guanaja, and Plantation Beach on Cayos Cochinos. . . . Rainy season is October through February; Northers can blow and disrupt the diving. . . . Be aware of sewage outfalls near shore. . . . Reconfirm flights (even this might not help) as TACA often overbooks; carry essentials as TACA loses or delays luggage. . . . Spanish spoken on mainland, English in Bay Islands. . . . Little nightlife or shopping. Classic Central American jungles and Mayan ruins inland (great side trips); malaria protection advised. . . . Cayos Cochinos Plantation Beach Resort, September 1996, Robert Shaklovitz, Houston, TX. "Water 83 Degrees, Vis: 30 to 80 feet. Disappointing trip, except for weather; just about everything else was "mediocre". Vis: 40 to 50 feet at most sites; at a few less than 30 feet, couple of times 70 or 80 feet. Saw no big fish, even at Roatan Banks, which is touted as a "fishy" dive. Many corals bleached only fish of any size were a couple of medium sized barracuda. . . . Pro 42 boat too small for our group of 20; inadequate facilities for photographers. The "rinse tank" was an Igloo ice chest that could hold one housed camera and a Nikonos. (No separate camera rinse tank at the dock, either.) Dive gear handled roughly for my taste after the first tank on the morning dive, BC's were taken off the spent tanks, crammed under seats en mass (resulting in tangled hoses and at least one damaged computer), and then attached to fresh tanks for the second dive. Dockside storage space for dive gear was inadequate for group. Boat does not have deck lights, which made gearing up prior to night dives a real challenge. . . . Shore diving interesting and produced many interesting macro subjects several different species of anemone shrimps and crabs, juvenile eels, and large arrow crabs. Rooms adequate nothing more. Food average except for the evening desserts, which were excellent. Roatan is easier to get to, has more fish and better diving." Plantation Beach Resort, December 1996, Bill Lande, San Diego, CA. "Resort hosts a small number of guests in a remote, tranquil and idyllic setting. The staff is genuinely friendly and accommodating. Don Higbie runs the dive operation. His jetdrive boat is fast and state oftheart. After a brief run to the dive site and orientation, Don and crew provided as much assistance as desired. Diving has never been so relaxing and exquisite. A wonderful sidelight at Plantation Beach is sea kayaking to surrounding islands and pristine beach (and usually entire island) to yourself. vis: 6080 ft. No restrictions enforced for diving." Plantation Beach Resort, April 1997, H.B. Roholt, Bimidiji MN "Well kept resort on sandy shore facing bay on the largest cay (Grande) of Cayos Cochinos. Clean and adequate accommodations, well prepared and varied meals; attentive and competent divemaster and boat man, full complement of top quality rental gear, healthy (including black) coral with plenty of variety in nearby sites, easy diving with minimal currents; visit to Garifuna fishing village on nearby Lower Monitor Cay made for ideal dive vacation for us seniors. Winds from the Northeast were strong enough to delay boat transfer from La Ceiba from Saturday afternoon till early Sunday morning; unfortunate enough to have continuous winds during our stay. 13 islands of Cayos Cochinos are close enough to mainland to get sedimentary coastal runoff, and low enough so wind from any direction agitates the surrounding seas. Visibility was only 1035 ft., reaching 50 ft on the one relatively calm afternoon we had. Owner David Burchard says vis in calm water exceeds 100125 feet. E-mail at hkinett@hondutel.hn. Website: www.tntgroup.com/dive/index.html." Plantation Beach Resort, June 1997, Ken Paff, Detroit, MI. "The Undercurrent article was our guidepost, and we found it accurate. Diving good, and varied. If you're into fish and invert ID, reef ecology, or macro photography, it's excellent. Reef-life similar to Cocoview (Roatan south side) but more dive variety, and you have easy access to the banks (seamounts). Good weather, went to banks 3 days. Several days the Aggressor or Dancer was diving at sites we'd been to. The only wall dive is Pelican Wall (worth a couple dives and excellent at night). Most large fish have been taken, though I saw a largest snapper (cubera) and Jewfish also. Don Higbie (boat owner, divemaster) and Tataya Acosta (assistant) are top notch. Higbie is a great creature scout. Several new entries to my list. Dive boat (42 ft., twin cats, jet powered) excellent. Shore diving not so good, but easy and worth a couple night dives; usual suspects (octopus, spiny and spotted lobsters, squid) and some odd critters (spotted sea hare, Caribbean Spanish dancer). . . . PBR is small, (our group of 4 were only customers), friendly. Food basic but good (after first day of bad gringo food, we requested local food and rest of week was fine). Accommodations basic and dark, but nice enough. Good staff. Setting beautiful. No-see-ums, yes. Hike to top of the lighthouse, nice walk, great view. Kayaks available. Can visit by kayak the Garifuna village of Chachauate, but that seemed too voyeuristic. Price comparable to Cocoview if you book direct (10% discount)." Guanaja Bayman Bay Club, June 1997, Barry Lipman, Brookfield, CT. "Great macro. Unlimited diving; two hour shallow shore night dives - at least 15 species of crab and unidentifiable shrimp and juvenile fish. Major negative: no-see-ums. Day and night, no respite! Took cortisone to fight fever and severe itching from hundreds of bites; luckily, they don't itch when you're under water. This could, and did for some, ruin the whole trip. . . . Staff outstanding, rooms and grounds beautiful, food was plentiful and tasty. vis: 60-80 ft. water low 80 degrees." Bayman Bay Club, June 1997, Michael Tell, Grapevine, TX. "Friendly, accommodating, helpful staff. Great gorgeous setting, remote although rustic. Food OK/plentiful. Excellent value, although would have paid more for the "bugfree" rooms. (They don't exist!) Diving easy, Jim's Silverlode and Jado Trader very good. (Large groupers and large morays). . . . Entire trip would have been enjoyed more had there been a way to eradicate from the rooms the "noseeums" and the ants, roaches, and many bugs I've never seen before. By the last night we were all scratching, knowing that there were more bugs in your room than inhabitants of the island. Except for the two dive sites listed above, balance of diving ordinary with few if any fish in some sites. vis: 60 100 ft. water: 8486 degrees. . . . Diving restrictions enforced were return with 500 psi. Allowed to dive our computers. Shore diving shallow and fair at best, although saw 5 ft. nurse shark on one dive (only one on week long trip). Would probably not return; Like going camping with bugs in remote, tropical setting." Posada del Sol, 1996, Peggy Brown, Victoria, TX. "Took 14 with us and had a great time! People were friendly and fun to be with, food was great. Very tropical, pretty place. Other than the noseeums (bad) we really loved it. Corals in great shape, but not as many fish on some sights as we like. vis: 6080 ft. water: 83 degrees. Posada side choppy and Bayman side flat. They gave typical profile for diving restrictions, but allowed for computer diving. Overall a great place. Worth the money." Roatan Anthony's Key Resort, August 1996, Jim Parkhill, McAllen, TX. "Water 7983 degrees, Vis: 4080 feet. Several trips to AKR. Diving, while not world class, is consistently good. Not known for big critters; large and abundant crab and lobster; grouper big and friendly. Week will invariably yield a few encounters with turtles, rays, octopi and free swimming morays, garden eels. Canyons and tunnels. Dive operation is nohassle, though hard core divers will find it restrictive and regimented. The dolphin dives and swims make AKR worth a visit. . . . Accommodations rustic, but unspoiled naturalness draws me back; AKR staff, from front desk to dive shop, is gracious, friendly and spoil a guest rotten. . . . Took three kids to the Dolphin Discovery Camp and they loved it!" Anthony's Key Resort, February 1997, Jim King, Albia, IA. "Well-run but too large an operation. 'Resident doctor" a retired veterinarian who was in charge of the decompression chamber." Anthony's Key Resort, April 1997, Richard Uniszkiewicz, Long Island City, NY. "Service by the divemaster and captain were great; tried their best to answer questions and provide information about dives. Divemaster even pick up trash off coral. Everyone went through a check out dive on the first day mask clearing and a buoyancy check. . . . Bleaching on some sights, but overall were in good shape. Divemaster would change sights if another boat was there. I wish other resorts would do the same (CoCo View dropped 20 divers into the water while we were half way through our dive). AKR acquired a new Pro 42 dive boat and are able to travel to other islands around Roatan. It was a full day (8 to 4) 3 tank dive trip that took us to 3 virgin dive sights, all of which were fantastic. vis: 80150 ft. water: 7882 degrees. Dive restrictions enforced were depth limit of 130 ft. and time limit. Variety of coral outstanding; pristine and untouched. Nurse shark, hawksbill turtle, and a stingray. During surface interval we went to a beach where we saw a pod (about 20 animals) of wild dolphins swimming 50 yards from shore. . . . Anthony's Key met us at the airport, helped us through customs, took our luggage, and bussed us to the resort. Service and food at the restaurant and bar was great. noseeums were not a problem if you applied Off or Avon's SkinSoSoft often, especially if you went into the water a lot. Be careful with the parrots, if they don't want to be bothered they will bite. If you don't like iguanas or bugs make sure you close the door to your cabin behind you. Keep in mind that is not the Ritz in the middle of a large city. Had a great time." Anthony's Key Resort, April 1997, W.R. Gooch, Springfield, MO. "Outstanding food. Nice pace of activities. (3 dives/day, 2 night dives/week) excellent swimthroughs, canyons. Good eel action, especially big green morays. vis: 60100 ft. water: 7880 degrees. Indifferent, bored dive guide and "drift" dives were actually long continuous swims! Guide did not allow time on site for photos, so do your own dive when boat is moored. Island tour not much, and don't bother with the "channel dive". Dolphins dive was fun." Anthony's Key Resort, August 1997, Jim Parkhill, McAllen, TX. "Diving over-regulated, however divemasters make exceptions for a known or obviously experienced diver. Bottom times are short on drift dives when the group must surface more or less together. vis: 70-110 ft. water: 76-80 degrees. Dive restrictions enforced were depth, time, remaining air. Still find the staff outstanding after 4 visits. The Dolphin Camp for kids is excellent." Bay Island Beach Resort, April 1997, Jerry Butler, San Pedro, CA. "No facilities for non divers and does everything as cheap as possible. Example: Resort packed 17 people in VW bus to airport while other resorts sent Mini A/C bus. Very basic accommodations. A/C a plus. Ricks American Cafe excellent dinner alternative. Food at resort very basic except lobster farewell dinner. Dive operation OK, but crew no help for setup of gear, exit from water etc. Everyone in Roatan has a handout for US $, unlike a few years ago. Saw lots of tropicals, no large fish. vis: 4080 ft. water: 80 degrees. Would pay a little more to stay at Anthony's Key Cocoa or Fantasy next time." CoCo View, September 1996, John Kruse, Jacksonville, FL. "Visibility 1550 ft due to heavy plankton. Great night dive from shore on the wreck, Prince Albert. Wish I had taken faster film (I had all Fuji 50 ASA) but the pictures of corals and small fish were good. Lots of seahorses. water: 8082 degrees. Very nice operation, resort, and people. Jose, the parrot who says "Quack Quack I'm a duck" and "help, help I've fallen and I can't get up" is the star of the bar. Good week." CoCo View, February 1997, Stephen R. Rutten, Green Bay, WI. "Small, well run resort. Dive shop is for the divers. Made us feel at home. No seeums not too bad. vis: 75150 ft. water: 7476 degrees." CoCo View, June 1997, Scott & Jann Taylor, Cave Junction, OR. "Cocoview combines a laid-back, rustic resort with a dive operation that runs like clockwork. Totally relaxing vacation that provides maximum opportunity for bottom time. vis: 40-100 ft. water: 82-84 degrees. Dive restrictions: deeper than 130 ft. needed prior approval. The walls are beautiful and the corals and sponges are the best we've seen in six Caribbean locations. Small numbers of fish. . . . Taca Airlines was fine. No lost bags and excellent meal and drink service. They only allow one carry-on per passenger and limit the weight and size of the carry-on. planning regarding cameras, computers, etc." CoCo View, July 1997, Bill Maclennan, Tualatin, OR. "While there are not a lot of fish, the overall diving, accommodations, food and the value are great. Dive freedom for experienced divers. Solo night dives at 3:30 a.m. were fun. vis: 30-100 ft. water: 81-82 degrees. Diving restrictions enforced were minimal after demonstrating ability. They wanted a plan if you were going more than 130 ft. The over the water bungalows are really nice." Fantasy Island Beach Resort, February 1997, Kevin R. Degler, Anchorage, AK. "Atrocious sand fleas, no real warnings of possible parasites (Leshmaniasis). Two bad experiences on dive boats, one, shallow water drop off in heavy seas. Steering linkage broke while pounding on coral. Two, skipper spun the prop off boat while going onto mooring. Dangerous as 2nd boat took us off mooring. Crew without knife or ax to cut rigging. All dive boats down, resort borrowed one from Coco View, nice boat. . . . Dive shop impossible to enter after hours to retrieve gear for flight home. Unpleasant encounter with security guard and gun. Also told if enough people wanted, we could go to Barbaretta. Lined it up, then was asked to rent boat. Overall, dive shop was friendly and professional. Rental gear in mostly good shape. Smaller sea life was very beautiful and varied. Upon proving dive exp. was allowed total freedom (disposable cameras crush at 135 ft.). vis: 70130 ft. water: 8082 degrees. Dive restrictions enforced were tight rein on group. I was allowed solo; no limits day or night. I have been diving 14 years and rate this a solid 3. Accommodations were excellent, clean & professional. Food was varied with entertainment interesting (island dancer etc.) Went after month on mainland Honduras; set in a beautiful blue sea and broken coral beach it was a nice end to an adventurous trip. Number of seahorses offset lack of large pelagics. Wish I had known about Undercurrent before I went! Great travel news." Fantasy Island Beach Resort, February 1997, Don Montgomery & Dinah Brooks, Kansas City, MO. "Good air service from American and TACA. Resort exceeded expectations in accommodations, service and food. Dive operation was most accommodating. Vis: 100200 ft. water: 7075 degrees. Shore dives were excellent and relaxing. Noseeums no problem. Mild repellent kept us virtually bite free all week. Great trip, great time." Fantasy Island Beach Resort, March 1997, Gary & Kathy Welch, House Springs, MO. "Group of 18 divers, all levels. Taca dumped us two days before trip. Had to find alternative route. Even though we booked with TACA in Oct. 96. Had a great trip. Great hotel and dive staff. Capt. Kirk & Jimmy the best we ever had. Took care of all our gear. Glad to have them all week but had to ask for them everyday. vis: 60100 ft. water: 7882 degrees. Restrictions were to let people dive their own profile. Diving great on both sides but very different. Avoid TACA at all costs." Fantasy Island Beach Resort, March 1997, Mike & Carol Kleppinger, Hastings, NE. "Personnel met us at airport and took over our luggage and passports. Very friendly and accommodating. Modern, A/C rooms. Beautiful white sand beach. Excellent variety of food. Fantasy Island dives both North and South sides of Roatan, so we saw a variety of sites. Walls, tall coral heads with many nooks and crannies to swim through, flat beds of lettuce and staghorn coral. Terrain in pretty good shape. Saw seahorses, crabs, lobsters, eels, shrimp, but in general the numbers and variety of the colorful tropical fish seemed diminished to other places we have been. water: 77 degrees. Divemasters stayed with us in the water and pointed out many things we would have overlooked. Bugs and noseeums were a problem. We enjoyed the side trips around Roatan." Fantasy Island Beach Resort, May 1997, Gerald C. Neal, Colleyville, TX. "Service and food excellent. Quality of reefs and marine life wasn't up to Bonaire standard but still far above average for most common destinations. Facility and beach was exceptionally clean. Hotel staff was friendly and helpful. Boat captain, Curtis, and our divemaster, Jimmy, worked their butts off for us. vis: 75100 ft. water: 8082 degrees. Diving restriction enforced was depth. . . . Bad: Initially the dive operations manager took one of the two main dive boats and set it up as a private boat for a group of eight. No one else was allowed to dive that boat. That forced all other divers (1520) onto the other boat. No only was it overcrowded but limited the locations that we could dive. Remained this way for three days until I complained to the operations manager who remedied the problem. Unfortunately the damage had been done and no one wanted to dive with the "other group" for the remainder of their stay. . . . Too many rats running from underneath the rooms for our taste but then we hate rats. . . . Mosquitoes and nosee-ums weren't nearly as bad as we were led to believe; maybe we were just lucky but we only saw one mosquito and had very few nosee-ums bites." Fantasy Island Beach Resort, May 1997, Jim Urquhart, Phoenix, AZ. "First-class resort and dive operation. Great rooms, cold a/c, friendly, helpful staff. Dive shop on dock by boats; all who work there helpful and seem to enjoy their jobs. Will take out as few as two divers on boat and truly unlimited diving. One in our group lost u/w camera (it floats) and divemaster searched around island for an hour to find it. No large critters, but awesome corals! Good macro shots. Gaudy clown crabs, flamingo tongues, scorpion fish. Fantasy Island offers numerous dives on North side of island (calmer) with large groupers and better vis. vis: 50-120 ft. water: 82 degrees. Lots of cleaning stations for fish and morays. Calvin's Crack nice dive on South side. Walls in great shape but watch depth! Water clear and easy to get real deep. . . . Rent a jeep and see the island. Anthony's Key ok, but Dolphin snorkel overrated. Bring lots of bug spray. You will get bit on the west end dives and snorkels. Great snorkeling by water taxi from Fosters bar on West end to furthest beach. Swim past shallow water to drop-off. Huge wrasses and parrot fish. Bugs plenty." Inn of the Last Resort, November 1996, Catherine Anderson, San Leandro, CA. "Very quiet vs. the nearby resort Anthony's where compressor is on during the day. The owners are friendly and are concerned about small details. Good divemaster, comfortable large dive boat. Food fantastic and diving beautiful. vis: 6090 ft. water: 7075 degrees. Dive restrictions enforced was 110 depth." Inn of the Last Resort, April 1997, Ervin Ashford, Corpus Christi, TX. "Best run dive operation ever experienced. Boats large with O2, radio, first aid, and boat crew in addition to two divemaster. vis: 80100 ft. water: 8084 degrees. Depth limit on each dive. Good gear storage and wash tanks. Accommodations outstanding large A/C rooms, plenty of hot water. Very nice dining and bar area. Owners run the resort." Reef House, December 1996, Russ, Brownsville TX. "Water 80 degrees, Vis: 60 to 100 Feet. Even if there's little moving reef life left, divemasters Merritt & Ron were expert at finding what was there. My luggage didn't make it, so they loaned me dive gear. The dive was well briefed and you could go it alone if you wished." Utila Laguna Beach Resort, September 1996, Nels Westman, Capitola, CA. "Arrangements handled smoothly by their agent, Utila Tours. $645 package included lodging, 3 meals per day, 5 days X 2 tanks plus two night dives. Setting very pretty: sandy beaches, coconut palms, flowers and hammocks. All buildings are new. Rooms are spacious with air conditioner, ceiling fan, bedside lights, good plumbing and hot showers. The clubhouse, bar and dining room are all fine. Food was tasty and plentiful, served buffet style. Well stocked, selfservice, honor bar; resort makes its own water so it's safe. They generate their own power 24 hours/day. Staff pleasant and helpful. English was spoken by all. . . . Dive boat is new and well laid out. Plenty of room, shade, radio and emergency gear. Entry is giant stride off swim platform; easy walkout return via stern ladder. Boat handles 1215 easily. One divemaster per 56 divers. Staff takes care of all your gear (including wet suits, fins, masks, etc.) throughout stay. Puts it on boat in the morning; changes tanks during day, rinses and dries gear at day's end. Truly pampered diving. Our divemasters were sensitive about our touching anything underwater. Fine with computer divers." Laguna Beach Resort, November 1996, Walter Brenner, Wayne, PA. "Water 82 Degrees, Vis: 50 to 80 feet. "Resort is new; physical plant is quite nice. Mosquitoes and nosee-ums at all hours made life miserable. They were even on the dive boat! No chance for quiet relaxation on the beach or private dock. I had to cover up with jeans and a sweatshirt going to and from the dive boat and dining room. Still I got stung. . . . Food soso. Diving excellent by Caribbean standards. Healthy reefs with unusual tube sponges and tunicates. Not many fish, though, the result of years of over fishing. No fishing is allowed now and permanent moorings are used." Laguna Beach Resort, February 1997, Steve Aardweg, Rosemont, PA. "The resort was real nice. Great new cottages with a/c and great view from your deck. Food truly uninspired, bordering on grim. A new "chef" (read short order cook) arrived and the food did improve, but not a whole lot. . . . Dive operation was courteous, prompt. Nice boats, good divemasters. Diving (after CoCo View, the only place we've felt worth revisiting) was mixed. Black Coral Wall and the Airport Reef were stunning with enough corals, fish to keep me down (despite the chill I'm a thin guy) for an hour. vis: 5075 ft. water 7981 degrees. Many other dives were yeah, so where's the good stuff. CoCo View had more consistent good coral. But Black Coral Wall and Airport rated with the best the Caribbean has, up there with Bloody Bay Wall and the East End of Cayman. Snorkeled with 20 ft. whale shark last day/last dive. What a capper." Laguna Beach Resort, May 1997, Jean & Bob Kirkpatrick, Russellville, KY. "Small, laid back resort on a spit of land; excellent service. Staff is dedicated to pleasing you. Reefs are beautiful and very healthy, with elkhorn, staghorn, pillar and lettuce corals in profusion. Doing fish surveys for REEF, I saw 139 species in 24 dives and 4 hours of snorkeling. Big fish are scarce, although they see whale sharks year round and there are tarpon in the lagoon. I saw three fish I'd never seen before, an octopus in the daytime, and seahorse! Swarms of reef fish and rivers of Creole wrasses. vis: 75-150 ft. water: 82-84 degrees. Spent surface intervals cruising and looking for whale sharks, no luck. AC rooms are spacious, with hand-crafted wood interiors, ten now, plans to expand to 20. All face the lagoon, with private decks and docks. The beach is on the other side with hammocks and chairs. In front is the best snorkeling reef I've seen. "infamous and ubiquitous Bay Island Bugs!" Utila Reef Resort, August 1996, Bill MacLennan, Tualatin, OR. "From San Pedro Sula, a two hop trip taking 1.5 hours. Short ride in a pickup truck to a boat for a 10 minute ride to the resort. You end up in a lagoon surrounded by mangroves and travel through a winding canal cut through the mangroves for the last 150 ft. . . . Resort consists of 2 buildings, one a two story building with 4 units. The room was spacious with 2 double beds, A/C, closet ceiling fan, self storage, good lights for reading, louvered doors on two sides to catch the breeze, and a deck area containing 2 hammocks and 2 chairs. Food good and plentiful. Bugs: Worse after rain and in no wind conditions. Diving typical Bay Islands. Not many big fish, a few rays, eels, barracuda, grouper, jacks. Water 83 F, vis 40 ft to 70 ft. North side of the island had the nicest diving, while the sea mounts had a lot more fish, but poorer visibility. Some rough seas made for a bouncy ride. Dive Operation experienced a couple of mechanical problems, but always managed to get us in the water. 3 boat dives per day with shore diving available. The dive freedom was excellent, with no one closely supervising your activities." Utila Lodge, July 1997, Jim Fiumara, Glendale, AZ. "Captain and crew willing to do what divers wanted. Water 80 degrees, Vis 45-70 feet. Atmosphere and pace relaxed. Many flamingo tongues. Three boat dives/day plus two night dives during the week. Camera rinse bucket on the boat crowded, so I asked if they could provide space. Given a dedicated rinse cooler every day (with a smile)." Copyright 1998 by DSDL, Inc., publishers of Undercurrent. All rights reserved. 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