Beluga, May 1997, Brent M. Myers. Fort Myers, FL. "Trip organized and led by Marc Bernardi of Aquatic Encounters. Provided extensive pre-trip packet of information. Included in the price of the trip was four nights in Quito including a tour and a trip to photogenic Otovallo Indian market. Marc did an excellent job particularly in making the transfers, handling the luggage, and clearing customs. My camera heavy baggage was over weight for the flight to the Galapagos but Marc tipped the baggage handlers to avoid penalties. Marc's cheerful personality kept the enthusiasm up throughout the trip. Marc made a very professionally done video of the trip and mailed a free copy to everyone on the trip. . . . Divemaster and naturalist, Mauricio Stael, was enthusiastic and made sure everyone had a great time. His lectures during the land excursions were very informative. Diving ranged from fair to outstanding; playful sealions were everywhere; common to see 20 green sea turtles in a single dive. Hammerhead, Galapagos and whitetip sharks were seen, but El Nino this year brought warm water and no large schools of hammerheads were found. Eagle rays and southern stingrays were everywhere! Some dives had numerous free swimming morays. Most underwater terrain was volcanic rock. Visibility 30-50 ft. Typical day's schedule was 2 dives in the morning, a land excursion in the afternoon and a night dive. Land excursions a wild-life photographer's dream. I shot 35 rolls of film, two thirds above water. . . . Crew of Beluga superb! Outstanding service. Food generally very tasty. Beluga just fair. not specifically designed as a live-aboard dive boat. AC did not work well although the crew worked late into the night to try to repair it. Spacious sun deck but the engine exhaust caused diesel fumes to spill on the sun deck and made it almost unusable. Cabins 6 and 7 were the best with large sun windows. Cabins 1,2,3 and 5 were also good. Cabin 4 was very hot and had diesel fumes since it was right next to the engine room. Avoid cabin 8 on the upper deck; it swayed back and forth so much during the open ocean crossing that its occupants chose to sleep in the salon."

Beluga, May 1997, David A. Stoll, New York. "Marc Bernardi's Aquatic Encounters used the Renia Silvia for years and now also uses the Beluga. Marc should stick to the Renia Silvia. Beluga is not a dive boat at all. It has no dive deck or tank racks. Tanks are hoisted by rope into a dinghy, and after the dive they are hoisted back up and the >BCs and regulators are tossed into a pile. . . . Narrow beam compared to length, making it the rockiest boat I have ever been on. During our crossings at night, we>pitched so much that we had to hold on, while doors slam and loose items fell. Almost no one slept. Food is adequate at best. Everything was drenched in mayonnaise, and I hope never to see a potato again. Refrigerator barely keeps the bottled water, sodas and beer cool, for which they normally charge, although we were not charged because the air conditioner was not working well. You have to drink bottled water, because the faucet water is a pale yellow color on a good day. . . . Worst part constant diesel smell everywhere outside and even sometimes inside. Impossible to sit on the "sun deck" (no chairs, but it is the same area used to store the dinghies during the crossings) without gasping for air. Exhaust pipe actually empties out on the sun deck. . . . Might have forgiven the problems had we not been at the Galapagos during a severe "El Nino". Water temperatures at times exceeded 80 degrees, including at Darwin Island, where the schooling hammerheads are supposed to be found. Lucky to see two or three in the distance. Few Galapagos sharks and no whale sharks. The crew worked hard taking us all over the islands trying to find big stuff, but without success. . . . Without the big stuff (which is mostly seen at the out-of-the-way islands of Darwin and Wolf anyway), there is little point to diving in the Galapagos. Diving is quite advanced-strong surges and currents; beginners should definitely not go. Because there is little coral in the normally cool waters, there are no brilliant color like one finds elsewhere in the Pacific or the Caribbean. Sea lions are truly great, but not enough. Once El Nino ends, the big stuff should return, but I won't go back. I've never been to >Cocos, but those divers who had liked it much better. . . . Land excursions were very interesting and fun. View this as a land trip with some diving rather than a dive trip with some land excursions. Bernardi arranged a very good day-trip from Quito to the market at Ottavalo and to various small villages in the mountains. In Quito, you can get a very good meal for unbelievably low prices."

Escapada, September 1996, Lornie & Rose Mueller, St. Pete Beach, FL. "Exciting, unpredictable and challenging trip. Knew the water would be cold, currents could run strong, visibility poor. We were cautioned about losing fingers, ears or arms if we wore jewels or carried purses. . . . Arrived at hotel in Quito, Ecuador at 11: 00 p.m. We had prepaid the trip, but there were no reservations, so out with the credit card. At the airport pay $160 cash for entrance fees onto the islands. The run for the plane is not for the sick, old or faint of heart. We arrived in Baltra and on to Santa Cruz; no boat was awaiting our arrival. We didn't meet up with the Escapada until 6:00 p.m. The 48 ft. Catamaran had a crew of five and two Spanish couples. We were assigned the small room behind the kitchen, which we seldom used. No air conditioning. We were up and ready to dive at 6:00 a.m.; little help with gear. Water wasn't as cold as anticipated. Perhaps our training in Montana had helped. The apprehension at first seeing the Sea Lions quickly abated into sheer delight and wonder. The agility, speed and curiosity they have! Turtles, eagle rays, didn't see hammerheads lurking in the shadows. Vis ten feet at times and I wondered what more there could have been. The divers and crew formed a healthy, happy bond. Food was good. The afternoon excursions were insightful and overwhelming."

Galapagos Aggressor, November 1996, Bob Viggers, Seattle, WA. "Wonderful! Diving mostly packed with lots of fish and sharks beyond 1000's of hammerheads on each dive at Darwin and Wolf. vis: 30­80 ft. water: 60­75 degrees. No diving restrictions. Whale sharks on every dive at Darwin. Saw a seahorse! The land trips (2/day) were fascinating. Took lots of macros of land creatures. . . . Bad: Currents so strong they purged your regulator! Strong down drafts! No night diving allowed!"

Galapagos Aggressor, December 1996, Jim Parkhill, McAllen, TX. "Vessel, crew and food outstanding. Divemaster accommodated request for midnight New Year's eve dive with champagne and video. Memorable! Most dives made at Darwin & Wolf. Second Aggressor boat stayed in Southern Islands and those divers gave disappointing reports. At Wolf & Darwin saw hammerheads on 7 of 10 dives, ranging from a few to schools. Once three of us separated from the group and encountered schooling hammerheads by the dozens. Other highlights: an orca following us while cruising to Wolf; a brief whale shark sighting; an abundance of marble rays; sea lions and turtles on every dive; variety of eels; schools of pelagics. land excursions alone were worth the price. Despite multiple layering, this warm water diver was uncomfortably cold on every dive. The lack of coral and color underwater results in a bleakness that is disconcerting at first. Viz this trip only 40-100 ft. water: 58-62 degrees. Dive restrictions enforced were not to go beyond corners at Darwin and risk being swept out of sight. Better at Southern Islands."

Galapagos Aggressor, March 1997, Brant Shenkarow, San Anselmo, CA. "Trip of my dive lifetime (10 yrs, about 900 dives). The ship, crew, weather, 90 degrees, water temp. low 80's (thermoclines were 73 degrees), vis 20­100 ft., big and small critters, all other divers, land excursions, food, cabins, everything very high quality. The trip was put together by Bubbles Below from Kauai. Ken and Linda Bail (Bubbles Below) honored the captain and dive leadership responsibilities to the Aggressor's crew. We divers quickly gelled as a group for one reason, that we'd all been chosen by Bubbles Below, because we've all dived with them on at least one occasion and they figured "these are divers and people who will get along and not get into trouble in the water." They were right. The first twelve divers they asked said "yes"! and no one dropped out in the one­and­half year commitment! Everything wonderful you've heard about Bubbles Below in Kauai is true and then some. They really make Kauai diving a repeat destination."

Galapagos Aggressor II, May 1997, Sarah K. Weinberg, Mercer Island, WA. "Vis: 20­50 ft. water: 78­85 degrees. No diving restrictions enforced. Superbly run outfit. Very sensitive to the special nature of the Galapagos Islands. Leader accommodated our request for more shore excursions and skipping some dives as we had a non diving spouse in our party. Dinghy driver was especially accommodating to the non diver, snorkeling with her while the divers were down. This boat is the best solution to the problem of balancing diving and land sightseeing in the Galapagos. If you have a non diver on board, make sure the boat operator hears at time of booking, and frequently between then and your departure that you want the Southern Route. The Northern Route is only good for diving."

Lammer Law, January 1997, Lawrence Sherwin, Santa Ana, CA. "18 divers is 6 too many. vis: 60­80 ft. water: 75­80 degrees. Three hour turnaround time between dives very poorly run. No spare tanks. Intermittent air conditioning, water, hot water. No camera table. No outside shower. Divemaster (guides) were terrific. Ecuador prefers Mastercard very strongly. Can't use Visa on Galapagos. For return visitors it would be essential to provide alternative to the day at Darwin Center."

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