1996 Chapbook
  Costa Rica

 

El Ocotal/Diving Safari, March, 1995. " In one week, we went scuba-diving; white-water canoeing; birding in rain forests with native guides; boating on jungle rivers and hiking around an erupting volcano. . . . The scuba diving provided plenty of large pelagics. We dove one day with the dive operators at El Ocotal and were not disappointed. On both morning dives, we dove among schools of mantas -­ close enough to touch. We also saw numerous large sharks, a few turtles, and some humorous moray eels. This excitement came with a price, however; strong currents, low visibility, and a boat ride of 45 minutes to two hours. Eighty degree water. . . . The most exciting dive sites are the Catalina Islands and Bat Islands, either one an additional $75-$150, but worth it for the big stuff. Never dove the local sites except on one worthwhile night dive (with turtles, octopus, sleeping parrot fish, and assorted small reef critters). These distant islands are not recommended for those unfamiliar with diving in strong currents. We had to perform a small rescue on three novice divers who were swept out to sea by currents (they didn't make it to the descent line after entry). But, aside from currents and visibility no greater than 40' -­ there are plenty of big pelagics to marvel at. While we also saw scattered pairs of bat rays, we were told they are commonly seen in the hundreds. The long boat ride was relieved somewhat by the escort of schools of dolphins and once a pair of humpback whales. Water, 80 degrees. . . . , the resort is not luxury, but certainly accommodating. Rooms have cable TV; AC; seaside views; tennis and swimming pools, and a restaurant with a beautiful view. They also have troops of howler monkeys who wander through from time to time. Dive operation is fully stocked with rental wear and provides a fair degree of customer service. . . . While these shore operations can't match a live-aboard trip to the Cocos Islands, they do have much to offer and were an exciting part of our vacation." Anon.

El Ocotal Diving Safaris, May 1995. "A four-hour drive to get to the resort. Accommodating hotel staff; large, comfortable, air-conditioned room, and a spectacular view. The dive shop was accommodating, taking us on special dives; helpful divemasters. Once you bring them your gear, you never lift or carry a thing. Dive operation could use a locked room where guests could get keys and have access to tanks for night shore dives. At present, you have to keep tanks by your room, which is at the top of a steep hill - dive shop is on the bottom." F.L, New York, NY

El Ocotal Diving Safaris, May 1995. "After a spectacular trip with the Okeanos Aggressor, we left our diving gear with the Aggressor office in San Jose, made our way up the Guanacaste coast to Playa Hermosa, a beautiful beach by Playa del Coco. Condovac resort dive shop was run by the El Ocotol Diving Safaris. I was never a fan of Costa Rican Pacific coast diving, but decided to see if we could get to the Bats, two hours away and $110 for a two-tank dive. They picked us up from our hotel and took us to El Ocotal, where the staff at the shop professional but curt. . . . Rental gear was old and beat up. Both my 1st and 2nd stages leaked, and so did my console (I would not be attacked by anything aquatic given all the bubbles coming out of me). . . . Divemaster, Frederick, a young Swede, and three divers (two had been certified the day before). Comfortable two hour boat trip to the Bats, during which Fredrick interacted only with the captain, we arrived at the Bats. First dive was the 'Big Scare' (read 'Big Snore'), ominously named because of the 'large numbers' of bull sharks patrolling its waters. After a competent briefing, Fred informed us that this was a group dive with a time limit of 25 minutes at 80 ft. (I am annoyed at how restrictive this dive would be). The dive consisted of descending to 80 ft. and resting on a sandy bottom waiting for the bull sharks. Though I saw four impressive Pacific bull sharks (10 to 12 ft.) I found the dive uninspiring because there was nothing - I mean nothing - else to see. The topography was beat, the viz was bad, and the surge the only thing that could keep you from falling asleep when the bulls were not around. . . . After a pleasant one hour surface interval by the beach, we went to Black Rock for our second dive, a group dive at 60 ft. for an unremarkable 35 minutes. We were fortunate that on entry the divemaster motored away and lost the group, allowing us to calmly but desperately look for something to see. I was bored by the end of the dive; except for a school of jacks and a few octopi, there was little to see." Panos D. Alexikos, Philadelphia, PA

El Ocotal Diving Safaris, June 1995. "Enjoyable time. Ticans are very hospitable, always felt safe and cared for. Only disappointment was the visibility. Abundance of fish life was surprising. I would go back, understanding that Pacific diving is not Caribbean diving." Dr. Bill Van Pelt, Houston, TX

El Ocotol Diving Safaris, El Ocotal, July, 1995. "Diving was really interesting. Staff was best anyone could ask for, helpful, professional, knew sites and setup and even washed gear. We saw Orcas and snorkeled with them. One had a 4.5 ft. dorsal fin. Beautiful. . . . Visibility was less than used to, but much more marine life than we've seen anywhere else. Bill Beard, owner, diving in country for 20+ years, gave us a wealth of information. . . . Wish we had known Diving Safaris works with other hotels. We stayed at El Ocotal and staff was not helpful. We'll go back, but stay elsewhere." D. Walken, Fayetteville, NC

Mario Varquez Expeditions, Villa Case Blanca, May, 1995. "Rained almost every afternoon, but out of the water by then. Dive Safaris operation at El Ocotal had 64 divers in five boats, Mario had only two divers, and another day I was the only one on his 48' twin bridge, covered dive boat. Cheaper for two tank dive ($45 v $55). Boat had oxygen, radio, drinks, and four crew to one diver ratio. Saw an incredible amount of fish: pelagics, turtles, 20 bat rays in one dive, white tip sharks, 40 lb. amberjacks, huge Jewfish, guitar shark, oodles of yellow tails, scorpionfish, and schools of snappers in the thousands, thick enough to block my vision and the sun completely. Octopus, eels, immense angelfish two feet long. Vis approximately 15­45 feet ­­ with 100' vis, you'd get sensory overload. Skins only. Because of few divers, didn't go to Catalina or Bat Islands. . . . Villa Case Blanca a B&B 1/4 mile from beach owned by a friendly expat Canadians. Two bedroom condo was $60 a night, including the best breakfasts I had in two weeks in Costa Rica. Patio, full kitchen, a great view. Delightful small pool with swim-up bar, and gorgeously landscaped. Nicer than El Ocotal resort and cheaper. Look out for local liquor called guara? - a cross between tequila and kerosene. Costa Rica is cheap off-season for everything. Just don't expect all day Sunday." Greg Talamini, Fairfax, CA


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