Some of the world's finest diving is in this land just north of Australia whose most consistent feature is its unpredictability.... It's a dream destination for live-aboards with unique critters on a big scale: big fish, big coral, big distances, and muck diving. It's also a naturalist's paradise with beautiful topography: mountains covered with snow in July shade, steaming jungles, butterflies as big as birds, walking-stick insects a foot long, and splendid Birds of Paradise. Most rain comes in heavy afternoon downpours. Volcanoes routinely disrupt things, destroying Rabaul in 1994 for the umpteenth time, although now it has a new airport.... There's excellent land-based diving at Walindi Plantation.... The water in Kimbe Bay may be in the high 80s, with visibility up to 200'. . . . If you're into wrecks, check with the live-aboards in this area as some of them are once again making trips to Rabaul.... After traveling this far, you must take a week to stay in some of the fine lodges like Karawari or Tari (even though they want top dollar) to visit indigenous, primitive, wild-and-woolly cultures that are among the most interesting on the planet. The people are divided into hundreds of frequently-sparring tribes speaking hundreds of languages. Witchdoctors on the outer islands maintain the old value systems, yet go to Christian services on Sundays, and men from the stone age, covered with colored mud, mingle in airports with business people in suits and ties.... Women should not travel alone in PNG. Port Moresby is an unsafe city, although the big hotels are fine; but use Moresby for changing planes and daytime shopping at the superb giant crafts market.... If you have to lay over in Port Moresby, consider Loloata Island Resort (011-675-325-1369 or e-mail loloata@daltron.com.pg), a diver's alternative 25 minutes from the airport .... Malaria prophylaxis is still essential. English and Pidgin English (helicopter: "Mixmaster blong Jesus") spoken....

For full reviews of the following PNG destinations and live-aboards, see:

Mike Ball's new Paradise Sport,PNG Live-aboard Choices, Loloata Island Resort, Undercurrent- October 1998

Christensen Research Institute, Madang Lagoon, Undercurrent- February 1998

Chertan,In Depth- November 1995

Tiata,

In Depth- May 1995

Golden Dawn,

In Depth- March 1995

Walindi Plantation, October 1997, Edwin Granite, Wilmington, DE. Resort claims occasional orcas, but saw none. Water: 80-82 degrees. Vis: 100-150 ft. Best, most pristine coral reefs I have seen! No water pollution. (Ph: 01161-2-267-6118, Fax: 011-61-2-267-5563, e-mail walindi@datec.com.pg)