We spent last week in Cozumel diving with Chucho Divers. Chucho lets you dive your profile as soon as he's comfortable with your abilities and knows the reefs very well; he also provides a substantial lunch on three-tank dives. (We've known him for years.) Punta Sur was pretty green, and currents were strong there and at Tunish, but visibility was great on the rest of the dives and sea life was abundant - black tipped shark on our night dive, many turtles and rays, and I'm always a fan of the "small stuff." Septiembre (September) is known as septihambre (hungry september) by the locals; the place is deserted, so the shopkeepers are a little aggressive. We stayed at El Cid La Ceiba, as we have in the past. Rooms are spacious and clean, equipped with refrigerators; only drawbacks are that the restaurant still isn't great and there is some noise at night from renovation of the international pier.