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Kangaroos and LSD
Looking for leafy sea dragons in Australia

from the October, 1999 issue of Undercurrent

At one time or another most serious divers make a trip to Australia's Great Barrier Reef or Coral Sea. For those of you who wouldn't let a little cold water stand between you and some excellent diving with bizarre creatures, our travel correspondent has found an offbeat destination that may be just the add-on for that big trip.

Dear Fellow Divers:

I'd expected some exciting diving, but I hadn't expect the excitement to start till I got in the water. Instead the adrenaline kicked in a short way down the road to where the boat was moored, a 45-minute route aptly named White Knuckle. Here we were: an ancient army transport bouncing through verdant hills populated with exotic echidnas, glossy black cockatoos, and wedge-tailed eagles, then snaking down a thousand-foot drop along a precipitous dirt track to the shore. Riding with our mates (that Aussie word for "friends" grows on you quickly), we wedged ourselves into the wooden bench seats so we wouldn't slide. The dive gear was bungeed in securely, but I was beginning to wonder about the whole prospect, whether our friends back in the U.S. were right when they questioned our decision to avoid the crowded Great Barrier Reef and pack drysuits for the much cooler waters of South Australia's Kangaroo Island.

Once on the boat and out in the open water for our 20-minute run to the sites, that thought vanished. Soon Jim Thiselton, our guide and the only dive operator on this coast of Kangaroo Island, was dropping anchor at a spot sheltered by the island cliffs, a site drolly named Pissyboy Rock for its nearby blowhole. New Zealand fur seals stretched lazily as they watched us gear up and stride into the cool water. As we began our descent, we wondered if this 58° water really could be Australia? There was no hard coral to form reefs and walls, but the rocky bottom was covered with myriad colorful samples of what's advertised as the greatest species diversity of algae anywhere. Kangaroo Island boasts some of the most prolific soft coral, sponges, and gorgonians found in temperate waters as well.

As we dropped down in the cold, clear water, Jim joined us and pointed the way toward some boulders and crack-riven ledges. At first I was acclimating and didn't see much, but then I began combing the growth for our quarry, the nearly mythical leafy sea dragon (Phycodurus eques to the scientifically correct, LSD to many South Australians). The LSD is up to a foot long, resembling a seahorse with long kelp strands growing from his front and back. It's so well camouflaged it can literally disappear when you turn to wave your buddy in for a glance. After considerable eye strain, I learned it was easier to look for a small cloud of mysid shrimp in protected water near a boulder or crack with lots of seaweed, then begin looking for their predator. Soon, I'd found my outlandish-looking prize. Paint a ten-inch-plus striped yellow male's belly up with his mauve eggs, look at all those plume-shaped streamers billowing behind, and the name LSD will roll off your tongue as well!

We weren't deep (about 45' with decent vis and a very gentle surge), and, as our minds and eyes became adapted to this new and different environment, we began to really reap the benefits. This little-dived spot is full of fish: 270 species with 80% endemic in South Australia! In some of the deeper cracks, blue devils peered out, looking much like large, angular, cobalt garibaldis so familiar to southern California kelp bed divers. Large lobsters (crays, in "Strine talk") lurked in crevices. Plastered among the rocks were lovely abalones of two species that almost begged to be taken. A nearby movement translated into Port Jackson shark, a critter somewhat reminiscent of U.S. west coast horn sharks. (Yes, Virginia, South Australia is also one of the world's top three locales for great white sharks, but your chances of actually seeing one here at KI are as poor as diving California's coast.)

That was it: California's coast, the mental disorientation and sense of California déjà vu... This was a lot like diving California 30+ years ago: the same water temps, the same density of life. Even some of the species were similar, but here we were, nearly half a world away! We covered territory slowly to take in the crowd of critters. Underwater photographers or videographers in particular should spend several dive days here. Most dives were easy for experienced divers, depths in the 40s and 50s, some chop and light surge, vis up to 50 feet.

Several colorful species of leatherjackets showed themselves from time to time, and poison-spined, zebra-striped old wives looked like red-eyed angelfish, escapees from a freshwater aquarium. Ornate and Shaw's cowfish, Tommys, strongys, harlequins, and bullseyes were mingled among the old wives. And, since it was the proper season, a few crays and abs were handed up to the Scandinavian divemaster who was interning with Jim before we beached ourselves at the gate at the back of the boat and floundered aboard.

A one-time ab diver, Jim marries his skills as a finely-tuned aquatic predator to a deep-seated and ardent conservationism. A true man of the sea, he knows these waters intimately and is happy to guide you to whatever denizen you're looking for, though the LSD is certainly the grail here. Most who come this far are experienced divers, though few have eyes up to Jim's! That doesn't matter: Jim Thiselton's Kangaroo Island Diving Safaris (or KIDS!) will guarantee LSD sightings in two days' diving or give you two more days of boat diving free! Frankly, I doubt he's ever had to pay off. At the Arches, he told us he'd probably find an LSD within 10 meters from the anchor; in fact, the LSD was a mere 15' from the anchor in a sandy spot surrounded by rocky crags, ideal dragon country.

I saw seals and dolphins on every trip, though Jim pegged the averages as seal encounters on 90% of trips, dolphins on 60%. Mammal sightings included New Zealand fur seals and rare and endangered Australian sealions. I wasn't disappointed at not seeing many pelagics; I'd come for LSDs, and I got a bonus: the larger, if slightly plainer, weedy sea dragons. Film doesn't last long here, and Jim is used to having divers show up with more than one camera for each dive. His clients' photos appear in Ocean Realm, and his client list reads like a who's who of naturalists and famous photoggers. Yet you won't find a homier, friendlier, and less pretentious dive operation anywhere. The unique blend of Australian "mateness," wry humor, and in-depth knowledge has "once in a lifetime" customers coming back for more.

Jim's boat is Eazy II, a 26' Cougar Cat (not a catamaran) that legally seats ten, although he will limit trips. (Jim's been casting about for a more spacious boat, and it might be in operation the next season.) There are plenty of hot drinks, water, and a seemingly endless supply of "sangers" (Aussie sandwiches) and other "tucker." Cameras get stowed out of the way in the cuddy and rinsed on return. The sea mammals, looming cliffs, and critters like white-bellied sea eagles fill the surface intervals between dives, which in my drysuit were as long as 45 minutes to an hour. Jim consults with guests on what they want to see for the next dive, selecting sites appropriately. All diving is along the north shore, protected from the immense rollers steaming in from frigid Antarctica, the next stop south. The use of computers is strongly encouraged; profiles are dictated by common sense. The dive day begins at 9:00 a.m. and ends at about 3 or 4 p.m. That's a long day for a two-tank dive, but the wild rides down White Knuckle consume more than their fair share. At the end, there are tubs to rinse gear and shaded spots where it can hang out securely overnight.

Though ninety-by-thirty mile Kangaroo Island, located across the Investigator Strait from Adelaide, South Australia, is accessible by modern modes of transportation including a ferry and commuter aircraft, in many ways it's reminiscent of some of America's rural west coast in the 1950s. The sparsely populated, rolling hills are a hodgepodge of wild coast, scenic farmland, eucalyptus forests, and extensive nature reserve. Without such European imports as cats and rabbits to disrupt the ecosystem, kangaroos, wallabies, koala, and many critters long extinct on the mainland are abundant on the island, providing tourists the opportunity for world-class wildlife sightings, especially during night walks or drives. Residents have modern conveniences like VCRs, SUVs, and microwaves, but the lodgings are homey family affairs where guests' breakfasts are dovetailed around getting the kids off to school.

There are no fancy multi-story hotels or giant dive resorts on Kangaroo Island. I stayed at the comfortable Gum Valley Retreat, a half-dozen cozy rooms clustered around a central court. Our room was a basic mid-level U.S.-style motel with private bath and big sliding glass door opening out onto the lawn. While there's no night diving or night clubbing, there are plenty of night game walks and singalongs accompanied by the player piano.

Meals are taken in the family atmosphere of the common dining room. The "tucker" isn't nouvelle cuisine, just excellent home cooking served with personal warmth by your hosts. Our 8 a.m. breakfasts were whole American affairs, cereal, poached eggs, bacon, toast, and coffee. Dinners were hardly plain-Jane, not with menus like hot tomato soup, mango slices and marron (Jim's farm-raised, 4 lb.+ freshwater lobster that may well be the best thing I've ever eaten), filet of marinated venison, rolls and fresh vegetable dishes, and a terrific apple cheesecake. Fresh produce abounds, and local lamb is exquisite.

Kangaroo Island isn't the Great Barrier Reef, but it was the perfect antidote to a Papua New Guinea trip full of wonderful pelagic and macro diving. A one-week visit provides diving reminiscent of times past: pristine dive sites with many exotic species new to most divers. For experienced divers looking for a different and unique adventure, this is a short detour on a "down under" PNG, GBR, or Fiji trip, a 3 air-hour junket from PNG I was glad I'd taken. I'll miss that egalitarian Aussie camaraderie where everyone's your peer, the doctor and cab driver alike both simply "mates." And I'll treasure memories of diving with Jim Thiselton, of sea dragons, blue gropers, and old wives amid the lush underwater gardens of Kangaroo Island.

Diver's Compass: Kangaroo Island Diving Safaris: phone/fax 011 61 8 8559 3225; e-mail kids@kin.on.net; website www.kidivingsafaris.com; or by mail Jim and Josie Thiselton, KIDS, RSD 451, Kingscote SA 5223, Australia. All-inclusive costs include 2-tank boat dive, all meals, stay at a four-star farm, and airport transfers at Aus $354/day, US $225/day; secure w/20% down w/VISA, MC, or AmexDive Discovery knows KIDS and can arrange from U.S.: 1005 A Street, Suite 202, San Rafael, CA 94901, phone 800-886-7321, 415-256-8890; fax 415-258-9115; e-mail divetrips@DiveDiscovery.com; website www.divediscovery.com...no alcohol w/meals, BYOB...farm stays also available at Telhawk, the Thiselton's large holdings, or other local accommodations ranging from four-star farms to budget stays in parked "caravans," small trailers with shared baths. KIDS can make all connections and book all local lodgings...Brisbane-Adelaide-Sydney legs were US $159 w/Qantas Kangaroo Pass. Flights must be arranged before reaching Australia; Ansett has similar programfrom Adelaide, take ferry from Glenelg or the 200-passenger, 30-auto Sealink ferry takes 2 hrs. from Cape Jervis, 1-1/2 hrs. from Adelaide. Sealink can arrange bus pickup at Adelaide hotels or use rental car. It's a 30-minute commuter flight to KI on small SAAB aircraft w/reasonable fares, limited baggage allowance...autos (ideal for sightseeing) for rent on KI, or travel suppliers can arrange local transportation...Adelaide nearest E-6 processing...220 volts/50 cycles with Australian outletsno recompression chamber on island...c-cards requireddecent gear for rent, including wetsuits, BCs, a few drysuits, Sea Hornet, Poseidon regs, but limited suit sizes, so check in advancealuminum 80s always pumped to 3,000 psino Nitrox...oxygen, first aid, and radio on boat...Australia requires passports valid 6 months beyond date of stay plus visas from all but New Zealanders. Visitor visas available free from the airlinenights in mid-November (early summer) in the 50s, daytime upper 70s...water temps range from 57° in Nov. to 70° Jan.-March (late summer down under). Boats out of water May-Sept.; dive season Nov.-April; Jan.-March best for LSDs...no health hazards, water and food quite safe, but be forewarned: Aussie breakfasts in some places consist of canned spaghetti or beans on toast

Kangaroo Island Dive Safaris/Gum Valley Retreat
Kangaroo Island, South Australia

Diving, experienced * * * * *
Diving, beginners * * * *
Accommodations * * *
Service and Attitude * * * * 1/2
Ambiance * *
Food * * * *
Money's worth * * * * *

For another story of interest see "Malaria Awareness: At Risk Even in Honduras" also from this month's issue.


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Kangaroos and LSD Looking for leafy sea dragons in Australia

Kangaroos and LSD
Looking for leafy sea dragons in Australia