Instant Reader Report
on Dive Dominica / Papillote Wilderness Retreat in
Dominica / southwest on
2002/11
by
Laurie Gneiding , NJ, USA
Report Number 030105173452756

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Send an email to the author of this report

 NJ, RI, MA, ME, Guadeloupe, Cancun, Bonaire, Cozumel, Belize, Turks &
Caicos, BVI, Little Cayman 

Dive Conditions

Follow the divemaster; don't go over 100 feet; turnaround at 1/2 tank.  

[None]  

Overall Rating

We stayed at the Papillote Wilderness Retreat and went diving with Dive
Dominica.  The Papillote Wilderness Retreat is nestled in the Roseau
Valley (a short 20 minute taxi ride from Dive Dominica) and a wonderful
experience away from the ordinary.  Anne Jno. Baptiste has situated the
retreat in a lush rainforest surrounded by a tropical botanical garden, a
terrific bonus as we are also avid birders.  Papillote has its own
waterfall and is a short 15-minute walk from Trafalgar Falls.  The meal
plan (breakfast and dinner $35/day/person) was a mixed blessing. 
Breakfast is early enough to get to the dive boat on time and
it’s filling (the pancakes with mixed fresh fruit were
terrific!).  Dinner is usually local fare (e.g., dasheen puffs, callaloo
soup) except Wednesday’s BBQ.  Servings are generous; however,
there’s only one or two entrées from which to choose and
no choice of side dishes.  The entrée’s were mostly fish,
which is OK if you’re a seafood fan.  If you’re not a
piscivore, sometimes chicken is available but beef is non-existent.  The
alternative local dishes included “crapaud” (i.e.,
frog legs aka, mountain chicken) or rabbit.  Sometmes difficult to leave
the table satisfied. 
We also went birding/hiking, with Unique Tours.  Alfred Rolle is a
self-taught naturalist and was wonderful in pointing out birds, mammals,
plants and entire ecosystems as well as showing off the beautiful scenic
views of Dominica.  
The good stuff on Dive Dominica:  Boats leave promptly at 9:00am, C-cards
are a must and DAN cards are advocated.  Dive Dominica has several boats
to separate the cruise ship divers from the rest of us.  Both boats used
during our dives were well suited – lots of room (12 divers +
crew and equipment with lots of room to spare), on board head, easy access
in and out, and freshwater tanks for cameras.  Back at the shop, all your
equipment is stored in a common locked area and carried to the boat
(although this arrangement did cause confusion when grabbing weight belts
that look alike).  While turning my air on for my first dive, my
high-pressure hose developed an “aneurysm” and Dive
Dominica quickly gave me a spare and was able to repair the hose.  They
also have extra weights on board. 
The not-so-good stuff on Dive Dominica is don’t expect a full
service crew.  During our five days, divemasters changed three times. 
Pre-dive briefings are the name of the site, depth profiles (follow the
divemaster, depth < 100 ft., turnaround at ½ tank), and where to
meet underwater (but no suggestions to protect the coral or marine life),
then the divemaster jumped in.  You were left to pull your equipment
together by yourself and most times haul yourself in/out of the boat.  The
only refreshment offered during the surface interval was a 5-gallon jug of
freshwater.  The divemaster did little to search for critters.  Several
divers in our group were photographers, some of who went for
&#8220;the shot&#8221; regardless of what damage was done to the
reef or aquatic life or if it meant kicking other divers.  Other divers
yanked arrowhead crabs off the coral and lobsters out of their holes
without a peep from the divemaster.  In fact, he was party to the critter
abuse throughout the week.  
We signed up for the 10-tank package.  The first eight dives were
pleasant.  Huge basket and tube sponges, plentiful soft corals, lots of
arrow crabs and cleaner shrimp, and even seahorses!  Golden-tailed,
spotted, and snake eels.  The HUGEST crab (>3 ft. across)
I&#8217;ve seen in all my diving years.  Sea robins, huge drums and
huge schools of squirrelfishes.  Not many large fish but LOTS of juvenile
fish, which may become larger fish now that Soufriere/Scotts Head has been
designated as a marine preserve.  The dive site called
&#8220;Champagne&#8221; was over a volcanic vent; the bubbles
tickled!  Many portions of the reef are badly silted and visibility was
only around 40 feet.
Our last day of diving was nearly disastrous.  We were to dive on the
Atlantic side of Scotts Head.  Inquiries regarding currents resulted in
the reply that it was &#8220;an unlikely event&#8221;.  Actual
conditions were not tested.  Sure enough, there was a very strong current,
far worse than ANY current experienced during several trips to Cozumel. 
Bad enough that two divers (including my husband) did not continue the
dive and bad enough that most of us should not have.  Those of us that did
had to kick like crazy to drop below the current at about 35 feet where we
swam &#8220;upstream&#8221; at 70 feet and sucked up lots of air. 
This reef was also very silted and a slight current to swim against.  When
returning to the boat, the current was again at 35 feet but the mooring
line was barely visible.  We were led in the general direction of the
mooring line but due to the current, several of us overshot the line. 
Somehow we managed to kick hard and grab onto it before being swept away
towards Guadeloupe.  The decompression stop meant grabbing a
hydroid-encrusting line with both (bare) hands, and hanging horizontally,
literally for dear life.  Entry back into the boat was done by going up
the mooring line and yelling for the captain to grab you as you kicked as
hard as possible to maintain your proximity to the boat.  Needless to say
we were exhausted after such an ordeal.  My husband suggested a refund for
the dive to the management.  They retorted that the divemaster should not
have chosen the spot.  No money was refunded.  
We&#8217;d probably not dive with DiveDominica again but
we&#8217;d go back to Dominica.  The people were incredibly friendly
and the island is incredibly beautiful.
 

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